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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. However, situated prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.